The world's best croissant really is in Paris
and a bed and breakfast in the south of France that has me daydreaming of lavender fields
I have a dear friend, Julia, who is so much cooler than me. She is so cool that she spent this spring living in Paris. And as you read in my last newsletter, you know that I just so happened to be in Portugal in May anyway.
Thankfully, the travel gods blessed me with a cheap award flight* from Paris to Los Angeles, meaning Mo (my partner) and I got to visit Julia on our way back to the States.
It was a quick trip, but we spent two nights in the south of France and two nights in Paris.
Here are a few of the best things I ate in France and the only place you should say in the Luberon region.
xo,
Carly
*Award travel is when you use credit cards points to book flights. I absolutely LOVE not paying for my flights. If you ever want to talk about the world of free travel and credit card points, message me!
Brigat - Paris, France
What to order: A plain croissant, a chocolate croissant, and any of the pâtisserie that looks good to you
I eat a lot of croissants in LA, and we have some GOOD croissants. I don’t think that because a croissant is made and eaten in France that it’s necessarily better than the ones we have at home. I had croissants and baguettes in France that pale in comparison to the ones at Fondry in Eagle Rock or Petitgrain Boulangerie in Santa Monica.
But the one at Brigat really was next level. It also didn’t hurt that it was only $2 and we walked right in.
I mean…what do I really need to say here? Look at it! The lamination is perfect, the flake just right. Just go get one next time you’re in Paris.
While I could have eaten a dozen of these, I’m glad I didn’t because then I wouldn’t have had room for the other treats at this bakery.
There were several other gorgeous non-croissant pastries in the case, so we picked the one that looked the best to us, which was a tiramisu chocolate mousse -esque cloud like dream. It was perfectly light, not too sweet, and you could tell that the quality of the mascarpone was A+.
Can’t recommend Brigat enough!
La Table des Amis - Bonnieux, France
What to know: This is a two-star Michelin coursed meal that costs $250 a person.
This was our big travel meal - the one we had planned our days in the South of France around. I know the Michelin guide is all types of fucked, but if I’m honoring my truest self here (which I get to do, seeing as it is my Substack after all!), I’m kind of a star fucker. I LOVE a cheap eat, but I equally nerd out on that fancy shit. The performance of it all entrances me, and when it’s done really well, the creativity can bring me to tears.
This meal had a few courses that made me a wee bit weepy, but it also had some other moments that made me laugh in equal measure (which certainly wasn’t their intention).
While the whole thing took itself a bit too seriously, what was really interesting was the way we were treated as a young(er) queer American couple. Of the 8 tables that night, we were the only people under 50 and definitely the only queers. While this isn’t surprising given the class privilege such an experience requires, it did shock us a bit that the staff really didn’t know how to act. There was a general awkwardness that the staff and chef exhibited towards us. I think this is not likely a common experience at starred restaurants, but it was ours at La Table.
I won’t walk you through the whole four-hour experience, but I will share a few of the best bites.
The food itself was indeed some of the best we have ever had. And as I write this more than six weeks later, I’m realizing that I misplaced the menu, and truly can’t tell you what any of it was. So enjoy the visual opulence and I’ll be sure to save my menus moving forward.
If you’re in the Luberon and you have the cash to spend, it’s a pretty special experience and I would recommend it.
Mille Roches - Gordes, France (HOTEL)
What to know: There are only 2 rooms on the property, both run $200-$250 a night depending on the season. Breakfast included.
“The south of France” feels more like an idea than a destination. But Mille Roches is very much a real place, and one I plan to return to over and over again.
This bed-and-breakfast is run by a sweet french couple, Natalie and Michel. There are only three rentals on the property - two independent rooms in a shared building (the photo in the top right corner) and the room itself is featured in the top left. The property also hosts a beautiful villa for weekly rentals that has three rooms and is now a bucket list item for me (summer 2026 anyone?).
They have a gorgeous pool (bottom left) exclusively for those staying in one of the two guest rooms. The view is as breathtaking as the breakfast. Natalie prepares a sweet little breakfast for each guests every morning, with eggs to order and homemade jams on freshly baked breads.
While Milles Roches is perfectly situated for exploring the Luberon region of lavender fields and tiny towns, it’s equally enjoyable to spend the afternoon lounging around the property, just thinking about your next meal.